Planning a new floor for a shop, basement or addition? We plan the pour, joints and curing so it sits flat and holds up.
Concrete floor installation in Aberdeen means our crew places the concrete, then finishes, joints and cures it into the floor you'll walk on, and the timing of those last three steps decides how well that floor wears.
Most of our floor calls are for a garage, shop, basement or addition. Usually the old slab has cracked and settled, or there's nothing down yet but dirt. The price mostly turns on the floor's size and thickness, the base work the ground needs and how hard it is to get concrete into the space. The schedule turns on the weather and any permit, and your estimate lays out what's included for your floor.
We often pour a floor alongside other work, like new concrete steps at the door or a concrete pool deck out back. Doing them together can save a second setup. If you're planning more than one job, mention it when I come out, since one visit can cover both.
Call (605) 824-9815 or use the form, and I'll get back to you and set a time to come out. If you can, have the floor's size, what it'll be used for and any covering you plan ready.
I come out myself to look at the ground and see how concrete will get in, and I hear what you want from the floor. Your estimate lays out what's included, and I'm happy to go through it line by line so nothing about the price catches you off guard.
Once you say go, we take care of any permit paperwork and keep you posted on where it stands. Then we set a pour date that works with the weather.
Our crew and I dig out and pack the base, set the forms, steel and barrier, then pour, finish and cut joints on the schedule we planned ahead. I'm on site from prep through the finish, and we clean up before we leave.
On an indoor floor, I plan when the finishing, the joint cuts and the curing happen before the truck ever shows up. Get those out of order and you can end up with cracks, a dusty or flaking top, high and low spots, and water that won't drain. Control joints are the lines we saw into the slab so it cracks where we planned as it shrinks. Curing is the wait while the concrete holds its moisture and hardens all the way through.
What's under the slab matters more to me than the finish on top, because a nice finish can't save a bad base. We dig out and pack the subgrade, the ground the slab sits on, so it doesn't settle with loose dirt later. If you're putting tile, flooring or a coating down later, tell us early so we can plan what goes under the slab.
What a concrete floor job covers:
If your floor has a few tight cracks and still sits flat, a repair or a new covering is usually the better use of your money. When it's sinking, heaving, broken into pieces or holding water, the trouble is usually the base. Patching the top won't fix that, so I'd tear it out and pour new. I'll tell you which one I see when I'm standing in the space, and I'd rather tell you a repair will do than sell you a floor you don't need.
Size and thickness come first, then the base work, since a floor over soft or uneven ground takes more digging and packed fill. Getting concrete into a basement or a tight shop adds labor, and a barrier, steel or a special finish adds material. The base is usually the first thing people want to cut, and it's the one place I'll argue to keep. It's hidden on day one, but it decides how the floor holds up for years.
I learned this trade from a contractor who walked every base himself before he'd let a truck pour. I started Aberdeen Concrete Company in 2023 to run jobs that same careful way. We keep the forms clean and the site tidy, and we treat your house and yard like they're ours. I'm on site from prep through the finish.
I'd rather spend extra time explaining than have you surprised. Before we start, you'll know what's going under the floor, when we'll pour and what the price covers. If something changes once the ground is open, I'll talk it through with you before we do anything about it.
Call (605) 824-9815 to talk through your floor's size and use, and I'll come out to look at the space myself.
Tell us the floor's size, what it's for and any covering you plan. I'll reply within one business day to set up a free on-site estimate, with no obligation.
I can't give you a fair number without seeing the space, because size, base work, access and what goes under the slab all move the price. Call (605) 824-9815 and I'll come out and give you an estimate that lays out what's included.
Some random cracking should be expected in any slab, even one with closely spaced joints, so the goal is cracks that stay tight and mostly land where we planned them. Steel won't stop cracks, but when it's sized and placed right it keeps them closed, so ask any bidder how they reinforce the slab. As a yardstick, visible random cracks in up to 3 percent of the panels between joints are considered reasonable.
It can, but general cold-weather guidance says concrete typically isn't poured the normal way when the ground is frozen or the air is below 35°F. Concrete that freezes before it can hold itself up will likely gain little more strength. In the cold months, we plan the pour date and how we'll protect the slab with you ahead of time.
Use a vapor barrier, a sheet laid under the slab to hold back ground moisture. It protects your covering or coating best when the concrete is poured directly on it. Plain polyethylene sheeting has been used in the past but shouldn't be counted on for this, so ask any bidder which barrier their price includes and where it'll sit. If it's a new home, you can also ask the builder to include a radon reduction system and test the house once it's done.
Permit applications go to the city's Building Inspection office on the 3rd floor of City Hall at 123 South Lincoln Street, along with a fee. That office issues building permits and checks home construction against minimum codes, and its no-permit list names repairing or replacing flooring, so ask them whether your new floor needs one. For setbacks from your property lines, call the city's Community Development Department at 605-626-7017. We're licensed and fully insured, and when a job needs a permit we take care of the application.
Control joints are usually sawn 4 to 12 hours after the pour, depending on the temperature and the concrete mix. If they're cut too late, the slab can crack on its own before the saw gets there. Ask any crew when they plan to cut, and we set that time before pour day.
We're based in Aberdeen, SD and work in the cities around it too. Choose your area below, or call (605) 824-9815 if yours isn't listed.
